One basin · 1.2 litres · 8 servings
A Christmas pudding is 570g of fruit, 110g of flour and eight hours you have to be in the house for
Everything on this site is written the way you would write it on a card: what to buy, what it weighs, and how long it sits over the water.
Read the recipe- 570g
- dried vine fruit, soaked overnight
- 110g
- beef suet, shredded
- 110g
- plain flour, and no more
- 110g
- fresh white breadcrumbs
- 110g
- dark muscovado, plus a spoon of treacle
- 8 hrs
- steaming, on the day it is made
- 2 hrs
- steaming again, on Christmas Day
The turn-out is where the buttering gets judged: a thinly greased basin tears the dome.Photo: Yasin Onuş / Pexels
Stir-up Sunday is the last Sunday before Advent. It takes its name from the collect that begins Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord, and it is the day the mixture gets made — not the day the pudding gets eaten.
The one to make this week
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Individual moulds give a better crust-to-centre ratio than a single dish — and the dates go in as a purée, not whole.
Three that are finished in an afternoon, and one that decides the crumb
Recipe
Treacle Sponge, Steamed the Long Way
Golden syrup sets the base; a butter sponge sits above it. Two hours of steam is what separates a proper treacle sponge from a warm cake.
Ingredient
Shredded Suet, Against Butter
The fat in a steamed pudding is not a background note. It determines what the crumb does.
Technique
Custard That Will Not Split
Poured custard is six egg yolks, 600 ml of milk or cream, and the ability to stop at 82 °C.
The larder, by weight
All of The Larder| In the recipe | Relative weight | What it is | What it does |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weighed dry, in grams | |||
| 570g | Dried vine fruit | Sugar, bulk and the whole of the colour once it has taken up spirit | |
| 110g | Beef suet, shredded | Melts later than butter, so the crumb sets open rather than tight | |
| 110g | Plain flour | Sifted with the mixed spice, cinnamon and cloves — and no more than this | |
| 110g | Fresh white breadcrumbs | Structure rather than filler: a lighter crumb than flour alone would set | |
| 110g | Dark muscovado | Damp, molasses-heavy, and the reason the finished pudding is nearly black | |
| Measured by spoon and by egg | |||
| 1 tbsp | Black treacle | Bitterness against all that sugar. One spoon; two is too many | |
| 3 large | Eggs | Beaten with the treacle before they go near the dry ingredients | |
| Poured, and the thing it all goes into | |||
| 75ml | Dark rum, with 75ml stout | Loosens the batter on mixing day, then preserves the pudding for eight weeks | |
| 1.2 L | The basin | A rim the string can bite on, and thick enough to take eight hours of boiling | |
Origins
It was a pottage before it was a pudding, and 1861 is where it stopped moving
Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord, the wills of thy faithful people.
The collect for the Sunday next before Advent, The Book of Common Prayer
- 1747
Hannah Glasse
The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy
- 1845
Eliza Acton
Modern Cookery for Private Families
- 1861
Isabella Beeton
Book of Household Management
- 1940s
The rationing recipes
Grated carrot for fruit, and far less of everything
The schedule, end to end
One Sunday in November, then a tablespoon a week. The Calendar section
Fruit soaks in rum, stout and citrus, covered, at room temperature.
Stir-up Sunday: mix, fill the basin, pleat the cover, steam.
A tablespoon of rum or brandy through skewer holes, re-wrapped each time.
Christmas Day: steam again, turn out hot, flame with warmed brandy.
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